Here's a great excerpt from an1830's tome I recently purchased about men's fashion. Full of great new stuff.
The Whole Art of
Dress
or
The Road to Elegance
and Fashion.
Cravatiana:
OF STOCKS AND NECKCLOTHS
I shall now proceed to note and comment upon a portion of
dress, in the selection and method of wearing which taste and neatness is
pre-eminently to be distinguished; more particularly in full costume. First I
shall treat of Stocks, which, though assuming a variety of forms, and shaped
for the sake of perspicuity, I have distinguished only under their three
general heads, the Royal George or Full Dress, the Plain Beau, and the Military.
The origin of stock is very ancient, though for the last
half century they have been worn almost exclusively by the Army, Navy, and
Marines, until first revived into public notice by his late Majesty, in the
year 1822, when they immediately became an universal fashion.
Though at first
viewed with a prejudiced and jealous eye by friends of the old school, after
some opposition from the petits maitres
tribe, they at length found their way into the opera and ballroom, and became a
portion of full-dress costume. But this has only occurred since his Majesty was
pleased to display one at Drury Lane theatre, composed of velvet and satin, from
whence the present full-dress stock takes its name. Habit still, however, in
some degree, reflects upon stocks for evening costume, and the adoption, though
increasing, is by no means at present popular among the ton. I now proceed to
describe three fashions I have classed them under.
THE ROYAL GEORGE
Or Full Dress. This
stock, the shape of which is left in a great degree to the wearer's pleasure,
is composed of the richest black Genoa velvet and satin, the latter which,
sloping down each side of the velvet, terminates in the centre with a very handsome
tie, representing a small gordian knot with short broad ends. From the
beautiful and lively contrast, of the velvet and satin, this stock is
peculiarly becoming to dark complexions, as nothing can afford a stronger
relief than the deep sable of its exterior. His Majesty and his royal brothers
were always remarkable for wearing them extremely high on the cheek, so that
the sides came close under the ears, extending to the utmost verge of the chin.
Though this certainly gives a very noble and fine effect to some countenances,
the rage for it has passed away and is now deemed singular.
THE PLAIN BOW
Is nearly straight-sided, very pliant, and composed entirely
of black silk, with a common bow in front. Though of an humble aspect beside
its more haughty and aristocratical contemporaries, its appearance is
unassuming and businesslike. Fashion decidedly Oriental.
THE MILITARY
Is remarkable for the plain stiff elegance of its form,
which is composed of corded silk, edged with kid and lined with crimson; unlike
the two former fashions it has no tie. The shape or stiffner should be made of
a thick whity-brown leather, which is beaten into shape upon a proper block, it
should then be of so unyielding a nature that no force of the neck can bend it.
A good shape ought to bear new covering at least a dozen times. The tout ensemble of this fashion expresses plainness
and dignity with neatness and hauteur
in an infinite degree.
Of stocks in general, it may be observed, that they are both
handsome and economical, and are not attended with half the trouble of cravats,
to which they become a pleasing change, more especially so in dark or gloomy
weather, when light-coloured neckerchiefs have a very forlorn appearance. Of
course it need scarcely be said that the military and plain beau should never
be assumed for full dress. A large sable-coloured hook and eye, will be found
an excellent and easy substitute for a buckle behind, the arrangement of which
is frequently tiresome in the extreme.
With regard to Neckcloths, it is first indispensably
necessary to premise, that previous to putting into execution the fashions here
developed, the utmost attention should be paid to their washing, bleaching, and
starching; the latter of which must generally be used in such proportion as to
stiffen the cloth to the consistence of fine writing-paper. You may then
confidently make your first folds as in the annexed plate; and then, with some
slight practice and care, may execute the following ties at pleasure.
David Gandy says, "Men don't realize how much women look at shoes." Yep, it's true for me, but as a historical writer, I'm in to boots. You know, those leather Hessian's that men wore during the old days? Topped off at the knee? Tight breeches tucked inside?
So let's talk boots and shoes, Regency style. This is from The Whole Art of Dress, 1830.
In undress it is impossible to dress a fine leg, more especially of a short person, to greater advantage than in a Hessian; and it must be allowed, where other requisites correspond, it adds a great deal of dignity and command to the person, setting off the figure to considerable advantage.
Hessians are a very expensive wear, and, like almost all other manufacturers in the present day, may be superbly worked and finished, being bent and creased in the most exquisite manner, without ever losing shape. That kind of shape most admired, when pulled on the leg, should be high enough to let the tassel touch the knee-pan, and then be lowered to the calf, when the dents will form fuller and much handsomer than when contracted and held in, which latter way causes the boot to sit stiffly, and want the elastic spring in the leather that the method I point out possesses."
Ah, a man in boots. And here is David. In boots. Hard to believe even he can look better in boots. Photo: Massimo Dutti.
