The Regency Man and his Cravat

Cravatiana, Stock, Neckclothiana.

In 1830, the Regency period was winding down with the death of George IV, but fashion for men was still considered an art. In the manner and elegance of dress, gentlemen were accustomed to flawless personal appearance. 

One of the most important components of dress was the cravat, the forerunner to the modern tie. The cravat replaced the black ribbons, jabots and stocks and became a focal point to the modern suit.

The Royal George: This stock has a similar style to the Military with a stiff neck. It is composed of black Genoa velvet and satin. The satin slopes down the side of the velvet to the center, where it is tied with a Gordian knot. This tie was favored by the Royals and they wore it high to the cheek, nearly brushing their ear.

The Plain Bow: Business-like and utilitarian, this tie is entirely of black silk, pliant and straight-sided.

The Military: This fashion accessory is stiff around the neck, usually made of corded silk, edged with kid and lined with crimson. More importantly, it is has no tie.

The Ballroom: True to its name, the Ballroom is the most complicated of the ties and requires much practice. Good thing nobles had valets who could perform this complicated pattern. This cloth was virgin white, starched and folded. Again there is no tie as the end pieces are cross and attached to the braces or in the back by means of white tape. And the part I like best, is that usually a brilliant brooch or pin was used to secure the cloth where it crossed in front.

The Corsican: This tie is another simple cravat and is primarily worn during the summer months. Commonly the cloth will be a light shade of cerulean blue and a plain gold pin will be used to fasten the cloth in front. This tie is also named the Napoleon.

Hibernian Tie: This emerald green tie is worn much like the Ballroom, though it has only one horizontal dent with a small Gordian knot.

Eastern Tie: Another white, very neat tie, this one relies heavily upon starch to keep it stiff. All around it should be smooth and straight, with a square knot in front.

Hunting Tie: This tie is indicative of sportsmen and is usually embellished with pins bearing fox heads or some other emblem indicating the hunter’s preference. Colors for this tie could be white, bright buff or with white spots on a blue background. The cloth itself is known for its height and tightness with three creases on either side.

Yankee Tie: A more complicated tie, there is a perpendicular crease on each side of the chin with a slight collateral dent on each side. Again a small, flat Gordian knot is used for the final tie though the ends can be crossed over the chest. Usually the cloth color is a light brimstone.

Other ties include the Osbaldstone, the Mathematical, the Mail Coach, the Irish Tie, the Trone d’Amour, the Horse Collar Tie, the Maharatta and the Oriental.

Beau Brummel is widely attributed to the revival of men’s fashion in the 19^th Century. However, cravats were a fashion of the army, navy and marines in a utilitarian function. It was the year 1822 when His Majesty, George IV, started wearing certain stocks that propelled the fashion into wider acceptance. That year, he appeared at the Drury Lane Theater, wearing a velvet and satin cravat.

For more, check out the Whole Art of Dress, 1830, by Effingham Wilson, Royal Exchange, from which most of this information was obtained.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               A list of neckcloth styles from 1818

The Whole Art of Dress

Here's a great excerpt from an1830's tome I recently purchased about men's fashion. Full of great new stuff.

The Whole Art of Dress

or

The Road to Elegance and Fashion.

Cravatiana:

OF STOCKS AND NECKCLOTHS

I shall now proceed to note and comment upon a portion of dress, in the selection and method of wearing which taste and neatness is pre-eminently to be distinguished; more particularly in full costume. First I shall treat of Stocks, which, though assuming a variety of forms, and shaped for the sake of perspicuity, I have distinguished only under their three general heads, the Royal George or Full Dress, the Plain Beau, and the Military.

The origin of stock is very ancient, though for the last half century they have been worn almost exclusively by the Army, Navy, and Marines, until first revived into public notice by his late Majesty, in the year 1822, when they immediately became an universal fashion.

 Though at first viewed with a prejudiced and jealous eye by friends of the old school, after some opposition from the petits maitres tribe, they at length found their way into the opera and ballroom, and became a portion of full-dress costume. But this has only occurred since his Majesty was pleased to display one at Drury Lane theatre, composed of velvet and satin, from whence the present full-dress stock takes its name. Habit still, however, in some degree, reflects upon stocks for evening costume, and the adoption, though increasing, is by no means at present popular among the ton. I now proceed to describe three fashions I have classed them under.

THE ROYAL GEORGE

 Or Full Dress. This stock, the shape of which is left in a great degree to the wearer's pleasure, is composed of the richest black Genoa velvet and satin, the latter which, sloping down each side of the velvet, terminates in the centre with a very handsome tie, representing a small gordian knot with short broad ends. From the beautiful and lively contrast, of the velvet and satin, this stock is peculiarly becoming to dark complexions, as nothing can afford a stronger relief than the deep sable of its exterior. His Majesty and his royal brothers were always remarkable for wearing them extremely high on the cheek, so that the sides came close under the ears, extending to the utmost verge of the chin. Though this certainly gives a very noble and fine effect to some countenances, the rage for it has passed away and is now deemed singular.

THE PLAIN BOW

Is nearly straight-sided, very pliant, and composed entirely of black silk, with a common bow in front. Though of an humble aspect beside its more haughty and aristocratical contemporaries, its appearance is unassuming and businesslike. Fashion decidedly Oriental.

THE MILITARY

Is remarkable for the plain stiff elegance of its form, which is composed of corded silk, edged with kid and lined with crimson; unlike the two former fashions it has no tie. The shape or stiffner should be made of a thick whity-brown leather, which is beaten into shape upon a proper block, it should then be of so unyielding a nature that no force of the neck can bend it. A good shape ought to bear new covering at least a dozen times. The tout ensemble of this fashion expresses plainness and dignity with neatness and hauteur in an infinite degree.

Of stocks in general, it may be observed, that they are both handsome and economical, and are not attended with half the trouble of cravats, to which they become a pleasing change, more especially so in dark or gloomy weather, when light-coloured neckerchiefs have a very forlorn appearance. Of course it need scarcely be said that the military and plain beau should never be assumed for full dress. A large sable-coloured hook and eye, will be found an excellent and easy substitute for a buckle behind, the arrangement of which is frequently tiresome in the extreme.

With regard to Neckcloths, it is first indispensably necessary to premise, that previous to putting into execution the fashions here developed, the utmost attention should be paid to their washing, bleaching, and starching; the latter of which must generally be used in such proportion as to stiffen the cloth to the consistence of fine writing-paper. You may then confidently make your first folds as in the annexed plate; and then, with some slight practice and care, may execute the following ties at pleasure.