The Regency Man and his Cravat

Cravatiana, Stock, Neckclothiana.

In 1830, the Regency period was winding down with the death of George IV, but fashion for men was still considered an art. In the manner and elegance of dress, gentlemen were accustomed to flawless personal appearance. 

One of the most important components of dress was the cravat, the forerunner to the modern tie. The cravat replaced the black ribbons, jabots and stocks and became a focal point to the modern suit.

The Royal George: This stock has a similar style to the Military with a stiff neck. It is composed of black Genoa velvet and satin. The satin slopes down the side of the velvet to the center, where it is tied with a Gordian knot. This tie was favored by the Royals and they wore it high to the cheek, nearly brushing their ear.

The Plain Bow: Business-like and utilitarian, this tie is entirely of black silk, pliant and straight-sided.

The Military: This fashion accessory is stiff around the neck, usually made of corded silk, edged with kid and lined with crimson. More importantly, it is has no tie.

The Ballroom: True to its name, the Ballroom is the most complicated of the ties and requires much practice. Good thing nobles had valets who could perform this complicated pattern. This cloth was virgin white, starched and folded. Again there is no tie as the end pieces are cross and attached to the braces or in the back by means of white tape. And the part I like best, is that usually a brilliant brooch or pin was used to secure the cloth where it crossed in front.

The Corsican: This tie is another simple cravat and is primarily worn during the summer months. Commonly the cloth will be a light shade of cerulean blue and a plain gold pin will be used to fasten the cloth in front. This tie is also named the Napoleon.

Hibernian Tie: This emerald green tie is worn much like the Ballroom, though it has only one horizontal dent with a small Gordian knot.

Eastern Tie: Another white, very neat tie, this one relies heavily upon starch to keep it stiff. All around it should be smooth and straight, with a square knot in front.

Hunting Tie: This tie is indicative of sportsmen and is usually embellished with pins bearing fox heads or some other emblem indicating the hunter’s preference. Colors for this tie could be white, bright buff or with white spots on a blue background. The cloth itself is known for its height and tightness with three creases on either side.

Yankee Tie: A more complicated tie, there is a perpendicular crease on each side of the chin with a slight collateral dent on each side. Again a small, flat Gordian knot is used for the final tie though the ends can be crossed over the chest. Usually the cloth color is a light brimstone.

Other ties include the Osbaldstone, the Mathematical, the Mail Coach, the Irish Tie, the Trone d’Amour, the Horse Collar Tie, the Maharatta and the Oriental.

Beau Brummel is widely attributed to the revival of men’s fashion in the 19^th Century. However, cravats were a fashion of the army, navy and marines in a utilitarian function. It was the year 1822 when His Majesty, George IV, started wearing certain stocks that propelled the fashion into wider acceptance. That year, he appeared at the Drury Lane Theater, wearing a velvet and satin cravat.

For more, check out the Whole Art of Dress, 1830, by Effingham Wilson, Royal Exchange, from which most of this information was obtained.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               A list of neckcloth styles from 1818

Beau Brummell of the 21st Century: David Gandy

The year 1795 – the first year of the Regency period in England was also the year George ‘Beau’ Brummell held the position of Lieutenant in the Prince of Wales' personal regiment. While in the regiment, he was called “the first gentleman of England.” Theirs was to be a unique friendship that lasted many years until an unfortunate incident - a single question doomed their relationship.

The Regency was a wonderful time and Beau Brummell was instrumental in transforming men’s fashions from the fussy, feminine time of the Georgian era. Wigs, heeled shoes, rouge and lace were set aside for a new look, one attributed to Beau’s sense of the impeccable. He modernized men’s suits and ties. He took great pride in his clothing, his dressing room often full of ton elites, including the Prince himself. These sessions often lasted up to five hours.

He was also noted for his particular rituals, including daily bathing, shaving and teeth cleaning.

But it was attention to dress that drew the most praise and admiration.

“Brummell put into practice the principles of harmony of shape and contrast of colors with such a pleasing result that men of superior rank sought his professional opinion on their dress.”

Brummell is number two on Esquire’s All Time Best Dressed List.

http://www.esquire.com/the-side/style-guides/best-dressed-men-list#slide-1

So has anyone else noticed we have a modern day Beau Brummell amongst us?

His name is David Gandy, possibly the world’s best-paid male model, certainly the best looking, most well dressed man in the world. He is routinely identified as one of the best dressed by Vogue and GQ. His fans rally around him, trouncing other famous faces and celebrities when it comes to voting for him in any number of popularity contests.
                                                                  ©John Ryder

The comparisons are easy to make.

While David is best known for his intense blue gaze, his dark, chiseled features and perfectly portioned body, it is his contribution to fashion that, I think, will be his lasting legacy.

David entered the fashion world in a time when male models were “skinny and androgynous,” such were the Dior and other models of the 90’s. Dare I say it, feminine? Sounds like the pre-Brummell Georgian era, doesn't it? David entered that world with more muscle than was popular with design fashion houses. He has continued to flex those muscles in any number of endeavors.

He is a tireless promoter of British fashion and has developed in his own fashion app to help the average man outfit himself with tasteful dress and accessories and without breaking a budget. Such an app nearly allows one to step into Gandy’s bedroom to watch his particular harmony of dress, though I would accept a personal invitation should it be extended.

http://davidgandystyleguide.com/about.html

 

The suit was Brummell’s trademark, such as it is with Gandy. David wears a suit as if it were a second skin. He espouses tailoring, preferring the bespoke over the mass produced.
 

©Lucky Brand shoot
 

And like Brummell, Gandy is versatile, his style sense appealing to mechanics with his Lucky Brand jeans and t-shirts and to businessmen with his Thom Sweeney suits. And just as Brummell wore a gold buckle on his cravat while at Eton, Gandy is all about accessories to add the final touches to complement the perfect outfit.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/blogs/david-gandy/2012/11/my-favourite-winter-pieces

 

But as with every road, eventually there is divergence. While Brummell died penniless and insane, Gandy seems to have a much better head on his shoulders. He is certainly popular with women but he has the added drive and focus to keep Gandy, Inc. prospering for years to come.

Finally, David has made fashion relatable – he has cred and steeze. One can believe what David says. For years, fashion has been about artsy pretension. David makes one want to peer inside, to be part of the world reserved for the elite. And he does this to Brummell perfection. Gandy is the "First Gentleman of the 21st Century."