Cravatiana, Stock, Neckclothiana.
In 1830, the Regency period was winding down with the death
of George IV, but fashion for men was still considered an art. In the manner
and elegance of dress, gentlemen were accustomed to flawless personal
appearance.
One of the most important components of dress was the
cravat, the forerunner to the modern tie. The cravat replaced the black
ribbons, jabots and stocks and became a focal point to the modern suit.
The Royal George:
This stock has a similar style to the Military with a stiff neck. It is
composed of black Genoa velvet and satin. The satin slopes down the side of the
velvet to the center, where it is tied with a Gordian knot. This tie was
favored by the Royals and they wore it high to the cheek, nearly brushing their
ear.
The Plain Bow:
Business-like and utilitarian, this tie is entirely of black silk, pliant and
straight-sided.
The Military:
This fashion accessory is stiff around the neck, usually made of corded silk,
edged with kid and lined with crimson. More importantly, it is has no tie.
The Ballroom: True
to its name, the Ballroom is the most complicated of the ties and requires much
practice. Good thing nobles had valets who could perform this complicated
pattern. This cloth was virgin white, starched and folded. Again there is no
tie as the end pieces are cross and attached to the braces or in the back by
means of white tape. And the part I like best, is that usually a brilliant brooch
or pin was used to secure the cloth where it crossed in front.
The Corsican:
This tie is another simple cravat and is primarily worn during the summer
months. Commonly the cloth will be a light shade of cerulean blue and a plain
gold pin will be used to fasten the cloth in front. This tie is also named the Napoleon.
Hibernian Tie:
This emerald green tie is worn much like the Ballroom, though it has only one
horizontal dent with a small Gordian knot.
Eastern Tie:
Another white, very neat tie, this one relies heavily upon starch to keep it
stiff. All around it should be smooth and straight, with a square knot in
front.
Hunting Tie: This
tie is indicative of sportsmen and is usually embellished with pins bearing fox
heads or some other emblem indicating the hunter’s preference. Colors for this
tie could be white, bright buff or with white spots on a blue background. The
cloth itself is known for its height and tightness with three creases on either
side.
Yankee Tie: A
more complicated tie, there is a perpendicular crease on each side of the chin
with a slight collateral dent on each side. Again a small, flat Gordian knot is
used for the final tie though the ends can be crossed over the chest. Usually
the cloth color is a light brimstone.
Other ties include the Osbaldstone, the Mathematical, the Mail
Coach, the Irish Tie, the Trone d’Amour, the Horse Collar Tie, the Maharatta
and the Oriental.
Beau Brummel is widely attributed to the revival of men’s fashion
in the 19th Century. However, cravats were a fashion of the army,
navy and marines in a utilitarian function. It was the year 1822 when His
Majesty, George IV, started wearing certain stocks that propelled the fashion
into wider acceptance. That year, he appeared at the Drury
Lane Theater, wearing a velvet
and satin cravat.
For more, check out the Whole Art of Dress, 1830, by Effingham Wilson, Royal Exchange, from which most of this information was obtained.
A list of neckcloth styles from 1818
Book Two in the Far From Home series will be released around June 1st. This title, Lessons in Fly Fishing, is a second chances story about high school sweethearts who could never get it together. Finally at their 20th high school reunion, the time is right.
Sometime during June, my next Ellora's Cave novella will be out. Book Three in the Mad Duchesses series, title Age of Innocence is a great story about sexual inexperience and the expert teacher but in a complete roll reversal. Ferd has only been with one woman and he doesn't want to suffer the same humiliation with his new, twice-wed duchess. Let's just say Ferd has a trigger problem.
By the first week in July, Book Three in Far From Home series will be ready. I love this story as my couple meets in Greece! I'm waffling on the title for this story but I have to get the cover ordered soon, so I'd better make up my mind!
